 | | PICTURE SPEAK | |  | | BACK UP: A Valaya blouse with Swarovski (left); Durazi's Mont Blanc show (right) | | The shimmer of Swarovski on a J.J. Valaya ensemble, the dazzle of Mont Blanc jewellery complementing a Shahab Durazi creation, a Baume & Mercier watch gleaming on the wrist of a Manish Malhotra model. Even as fashion gets fabulous with a little help from foreign friends, international labels are increasingly looking for desi dalliances. Bollywood badshahs and la-di-da socialite brand ambassadors are being nudged to the back seat as specialised international luxury brands cleverly channel their way into the Indian market directly through established Indian fashion labels. Tentative steps in fashion flirtation were first taken by Rohit Bal and Omega watches when he dressed Anna Kournikova for an exclusive Parisian ramp show. Suneet Verma soon followed with a brief Moet & Chandon affiliation and in 2000, Malhotra launched his label under Baume & Mercier's watchful eye. The confident strides came with Valaya signing up as Swarovski's first-ever brand ambassador. Today, Swarovski not only provides material support to Valaya and a whole host of Indian designers, but even the reticent Durazi has come out of self-imposed exile for a Mont Blanc jewellery show in Mumbai. In April, fashion tsar Tarun Tahiliani styled the opening party of the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (WLIFW), hosted by none other than Louis Vuitton (LV). He also dressed Bipasha Basu, Katrina Kaif and Shilpa Shetty for a ramp show at the Delhi launch of Signet, the flagship diamond jewellery showroom of the Belgium-based Vijaydimon group. So, as Malhotra's Resortwear 2006 line finds a willing audience at Baume & Mercier's 175th anniversary celebrations in Delhi, more and more Indian designers are willing to rub shoulders with big names in luxury, even as luxe brands look at gaining visibility in a new market. | | PICTURE SPEAK | |  | | WATCH OUT: Malhotra at Baume & Mercier's 175th anniversary show | | "For many international luxury brands, the simplest route to their main buyer market is by way of association with an Indian luxury brand," says Valaya, for whom the association makes perfect sense because he employs crystals in his couture, diffusion and prêt lines, and both Swarovski and The House of Valaya tap into an identical customer base. Sanjay Sharma, country manager, Swarovski Crystal Components Business, India explains his side of the deal, "The product was initially seen as a foreign component, suited more for non-traditional wear. In order to change this mindset and establish crystal as an essential ingredient of traditional wear, we felt it important to partner a designer known for his traditionally sound craft. Hence, Valaya became the natural choice for this association." Swarovski also offers application support, trend research and an opportunity for designers to be showcased in international markets through the Swarovski Creative Service Center network in leading fashion metropolises. For luxe leader LV, the emphasis is on forging relationships through interactions rather than sponsoring shows or appointing brand ambassadors. It flagged off the WLIFW with a fabulous party at the Crescent, Delhi, styled by Tahiliani, much like the elite soiree it arranged for the designer during India Fashion Week 2005. "We don't need associations," says brand adviser Tikka Shatrujit Singh. "We would rather encourage designers to see what we are doing and share their views on the luxury retail business." And even though the WLIFW party was simply "to celebrate Indian fashion", there was no denying the 'exclusive' tag the event acquired due to the unmistakable LV stamp and the media mileage the brand attracted. On the other hand, Malhotra considers his occasional association with Baume & Mercier an extension of his brand personality. "Both the brand and my label represent luxury and exclusivity, yet they are accessible, wearable and affordable," he points out. Mont Blanc, too, made a strategic complementary foray into the jewellery market with the Durazi show in November 2005. "Shahab's line had the right blend-western flavour and Indian feel. With saris, too, part of the collection, it enabled us to highlight that our jewellery complemented both western and Indian ensembles," says Anna Bredmeyer, country manager, pr, advertising and marketing, Mont Blanc/Entrack. With the mutual admiration society flag flying high, one can't help but wonder who piggy-backs on whose success in these associations, much like the proverbial chicken and egg conundrum. While Malhotra maintains that the arrangement "takes away the headache of putting together a show", he believes it finally benefits the international brand more since they get direct access to a whole new market-base. Sharma, however, contends that the partnership benefits both parties. "For a brand like Swarovski, this association has been the backbone to our ongoing ties with all leading members of the fashion industry. For designers, corporate backing is beneficial as it allows them the freedom to focus on creativity instead of the financials of a show," explains the Swarovski manager. Bredmeyer agrees. "This is a perfect platform for both to pool in their database and present their collections in their entirety to a target clientele. Besides, the designer has a readymade sponsor to foot the bills." So even as watch, jewellery and accessory companies clink champagne glasses with India's fash-frat and couture cats, in turn, stash away their beseeching bowls, will it be a matter of time before our desi dudes actually wield the designing batons for these deluxe giants? The mutual admiration society is, for now, keeping its cards close to its chest.
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