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  | B U Y B A C K
 The American Indian
 The Bissells want to up their stake in
      Fabindia. But the other shareholders of the closely-held firm could dig
      their heels in. By    
      Jaya Basu It's the
      kind of clothes label that you either like or don't. No in-betweens. No
      maybes. If you're the type that likes to wear handloom kurtas with your
      jeans and jootis, then you probably swear by Fabindia, a brand that has
      for 40 years been at the forefront of a unique fashion statement: ethnic
      yes, but also chic. Its garments, with their trademark prints and wooden
      buttons, have been the preferred choice of legions of loyalists over four
      decades-from jholawalla leftists in the 1960s and the 70s to
      Lexus-flaunting chatterati (so what if they pair a kurta with Versace
      lycra-blended jeans?) in the 1980s and the 90s. And so, like a cult, the Fabindia legend
      has grown. From a tiny 500-square feet store in Delhi's posh Greater
      Kailash-I, Fabindia today has six shops-the largest in Delhi measures
      4,000 square feet-including a newly opened café and another outlet that,
      in addition to clothes, sells bric-a-brac and objets d'art for homes, all
      ethnic, of course. Besides Delhi, Fabindia's six stores are spread over
      three other cities-Mumbai, Bangalore, and Chennai. And, of course, with
      other cities fast breeding their own bands of cognoscenti consumers, the
      store plans to spread elsewhere soon. Like Calcutta, Pune, and Ahmedabad. But that's not the latest story about
      Fabindia. Did you know that back in 1974, when the Foreign Exchange
      Regulation Act (FERA) was introduced, along with companies like Hindustan
      Lever, Philips and Nestle, Fabindia had to go in for a dilution of its
      equity capital? Till then, Fabindia Inc., an US company promoted by an
      Indophile American, the late John Bissell, had owned 100-per cent of the
      Indian firm. Then, although two of its larger and better-known
      compatriots-yes, we're talking about Coke and IBM-decided to leave rather
      than dilute, Fabindia Inc. diluted its stake to 40 per cent. But unlike
      other companies that opted for dilution, instead of making a public issue,
      Fabindia remained unlisted and its shares (face-value: Rs 5,000) were
      privately placed. Today, 22 Indian shareholders have an overall 60 per
      cent stake in the company, prominent among them are Lt. Gen. H.K. Sibal,
      (12.12 per cent), Meena Chawdhury (10.37 per cent), and Madhukar Khera (9
      per cent). Now, with FERA being a forgotten nightmare,
      foreign companies have been busy hiking stakes in their India
      subsidiaries. Fabindia wants to do the same. The basic idea is to offer
      those who have been holding the shares since 1976 an opportunity to cash
      out. Fabindia Inc. will buy back 10 per cent of the equity from Indian
      shareholders, reducing the equity capital from Rs 80 lakh to Rs 72 lakh.
      Since the Bissells will continue to hold their 32 lakh shares, their
      relative holding will increase, taking the foreign shareholding to 44.44
      per cent. How much will the US parent cough up for the shares? Says the
      late John Bissell's son and heir William: ''We are opting for this route
      as there was no other route for shareholders to exit from the company. The
      estimated value of Rs 63,000 per share would give them a good return for
      their investment.'' Last year Fabindia, which, incidentally, relies only
      on word-of-mouth publicity for marketing, raked in a turnover of Rs 34
      crore, which may grow to Rs 40 crore this year. But what's irksome is the
      fact that exports, which accounted for 40 per cent of the turnover last
      year, are plateauing. Post-buyback, that's something the Bissells will
      have to worry about.
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