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The US consulate
in Chennai issues the maximum visas any US embassy office in
India does |
The men wear khakis or jeans and classic
tees; the women wear starched cotton saris; and both wear walking
shoes so clean and new it hurts the eye to look. Adidas, Reebok, Nike,
New Balance, and Converse, these are the real things, not Rs 300-a-pair
Pondy Bazaar rip-offs. That's a Chennai shopping district, and this
is pre-dawn Chennai when the grey hairs come out for their morning
constitutionals. The walkway by either of the city's two popular beaches
(yes you poor inland types, it has t-w-o) is a popular spot, as is
the tropical forest like campus of the Theosophical Society in Adyar,
and the central-yet-exclusive Boat Club Road. Everyone seems to know
everyone else and when classic New Balance meets pink Reebok or white
Nike meets Red Converse the usual small talk follows. Only, in addition
to words such as lumbago, stroke, cholesterol, doctor, and heart that
are traded anywhere in the world where greys congregate, a passer-by
would hear seemingly out of place words such as visa, Niagara (not
Viagra), h1b, routing, Seoul, and mortgage. Welcome to the world of
the software parent. Every city has its share of this globe-trotting,
Pacific Standard Time calibrated community of retirees; Chennai-the
US consulate in the city issues the maximum visas any US embassy office
in India does, over 100,000-has, arguably, more than any other.
Referring to the phenomenon, the late R.K. Narayan, a resident,
remarked that Chennai would soon be a "city of parents".
And there are pockets of San Francisco, Dallas, Houston, Atlanta,
and New Jersey, swears A.P. Shivaram, a software pro at iNautix
Technologies in Chennai who spent six years in the US, that remind
him of West Mambalam, a predominantly middle-class Chennai borough.
"A software professional knows three languages," says
Vivek Harinarain, it Secretary to the Government of Tamil Nadu,
proferring the latest version of a chestnut. "XML, C++, and
Tamil." He guffaws.
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Chennai's Tidel Park: After
Bangalore, Chennai is the preferred destination for software
companies |
Coding In The Genes
The average Tamil's coding abilities have been ascribed to several
things, from spicy Tamilian cuisine to genes that just seem more
equipped to handle numbers and analytics. The actual answer may
lie more in the direction of Tamil Nadu's education system and some
simple demand-supply inequities.
Seven years ago, Tamil Nadu had 65 engineering colleges. Today,
it has 245 that turn out a little over 75,000 engineers each year,
more than the US does. The four hot specialisations in any college,
in order of their appeal, are it, Computer Science, Electronics
and Communications Engineering (sweetly shortened to ECE), and Electrical
Engineering. Then there are the 180-odd training companies that
run it schools in the state-from national players NIIT, Aptech,
and SSI to one-neighbourhood shows such as CSC Computer Education.
"Tamil Nadu has the numbers," explains Harinarain. "It
is purely driven by demand and supply." For the record, Karnataka,
with 115 engineering colleges, graduates 35,000 engineers each year;
Andhra Pradesh, with 174, does 46,090. "The Tamils, especially
the middle classes, have always placed a great emphasis on education,"
says V. Jacob John, a sociologist with Madras Institute of Development
Studies. Nor are they happy with a graduate degree; almost every
Tamil engineer has eyes set on a masters, even a doctoral degree,
either from an Indian university or a US one. Ergo, Tamils constitute
a significant proportion of the admits into the various IITs, RECs
(Regional Engineering Colleges), government and private colleges
in other states, and institutes of higher education in India and
the US.
The technical education boom in Tamil Nadu closely mirrors the
great Indian software story. "The state realised the value
of engineering education and decided to allow privatisation in the
early 1980s," says K.S. Lakshminarayanan, Chief Technical Advisor
& General Manager, Electronics Corporation of Tamil Nadu. That
saw the creation of private engineering colleges-today there are
237 of the kind. In contrast, Andhra Pradesh allowed the creation
of private engineering colleges in 1996, Karnataka in the early
1990s, and Kerala in 2000. By 1990, colleges such as Sree Venkateshwara
College of Engineering in Chennai, Mepco Schlenk Engineering College
in firework-town Sivakasi, and PSG College of Technology in Coimbatore
acquired the reputation of sending out entire batches to the US.
Then the network and cluster effects took over.
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There are 180-odd training
companies that run IT schools in the state-from national players
NIIT, Aptech, and SSI to one-neighbourhood shows such as CSC
Computer Education |
West Mambalam In New Jersey
Almost every engineering college in Tamil Nadu boasts an unofficial
equivalent of the USEFI, the United States Education Foundation
in India, which counsels students who wish to study in that country.
The underground versions are run by alumni that has made it to
the US and the help it provides ranges from tips on cracking graduate
record examination (GRE) to practical instructions on matters financial.
Then, says S. Mahalingam, Executive Vice President, TCS, there's
the network effect. "If a classmate of mine goes aboard, he
will try to help me get there too." That's what V. Varadarajan,
now 28 and a software engineer at a Chennai-based product development
company, did. Post graduation (from Bharat Engineering College in
Chennai) he picked up some Java-skills, found an agent who sent
him abroad, stayed there three years, switched as many jobs, got
benched and returned. Along the way he also helped three friends
he met in a Yahoo! chat room find jobs in the US. All three are
still there.
The Tamil-in-the-US, West Mambalam-in-New Jersey phenomenon has
fed off itself, a self-perpetuating wave that has only got bigger
and more powerful with time. A student of class VII sees his neighbour,
a fresh graduate from an engineering college in Coimbatore head
for the Illinois Institute of Technology for a MS degree in computer
science. A year later, he sees him again, a TA at the institute
down for the summer with a newly acquired accent and wondrous tales
of the US. Four years later he sees him again, now an analyst at
Computer Sciences Corp who plans to fly his parents-the farthest
west they've been before this is Jaipur-down to Boston where he
is based for a holiday and decides being a code-jock isn't so bad
after all. Egged on by his parents-"See how well Ram has done
for himself in Boston?"-he manages to secure admission to a
halfway decent engineering college in Chennai. And his life is made.
"With so many software success stories around in Tamil Nadu,
there's no shortage of role models for people in search of them,"
says sociologist Jacob John. "It's almost as if the city's
young have been brainwashed into believing it is the thing."
In Tamil Nadu it really is.
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