  | 
               
               
                | The US consulate 
                  in Chennai issues the maximum visas any US embassy office in 
                  India does | 
               
             
            The men wear khakis or jeans and classic 
            tees; the women wear starched cotton saris; and both wear walking 
            shoes so clean and new it hurts the eye to look. Adidas, Reebok, Nike, 
            New Balance, and Converse, these are the real things, not Rs 300-a-pair 
            Pondy Bazaar rip-offs. That's a Chennai shopping district, and this 
            is pre-dawn Chennai when the grey hairs come out for their morning 
            constitutionals. The walkway by either of the city's two popular beaches 
            (yes you poor inland types, it has t-w-o) is a popular spot, as is 
            the tropical forest like campus of the Theosophical Society in Adyar, 
            and the central-yet-exclusive Boat Club Road. Everyone seems to know 
            everyone else and when classic New Balance meets pink Reebok or white 
            Nike meets Red Converse the usual small talk follows. Only, in addition 
            to words such as lumbago, stroke, cholesterol, doctor, and heart that 
            are traded anywhere in the world where greys congregate, a passer-by 
            would hear seemingly out of place words such as visa, Niagara (not 
            Viagra), h1b, routing, Seoul, and mortgage. Welcome to the world of 
            the software parent. Every city has its share of this globe-trotting, 
            Pacific Standard Time calibrated community of retirees; Chennai-the 
            US consulate in the city issues the maximum visas any US embassy office 
            in India does, over 100,000-has, arguably, more than any other. 
             Referring to the phenomenon, the late R.K. Narayan, a resident, 
              remarked that Chennai would soon be a "city of parents". 
              And there are pockets of San Francisco, Dallas, Houston, Atlanta, 
              and New Jersey, swears A.P. Shivaram, a software pro at iNautix 
              Technologies in Chennai who spent six years in the US, that remind 
              him of West Mambalam, a predominantly middle-class Chennai borough. 
              "A software professional knows three languages," says 
              Vivek Harinarain, it Secretary to the Government of Tamil Nadu, 
              proferring the latest version of a chestnut. "XML, C++, and 
              Tamil." He guffaws.  
            
               
                  | 
               
               
                | Chennai's Tidel Park: After 
                  Bangalore, Chennai is the preferred destination for software 
                  companies | 
               
             
            Coding In The Genes 
            The average Tamil's coding abilities have been ascribed to several 
              things, from spicy Tamilian cuisine to genes that just seem more 
              equipped to handle numbers and analytics. The actual answer may 
              lie more in the direction of Tamil Nadu's education system and some 
              simple demand-supply inequities.  
             Seven years ago, Tamil Nadu had 65 engineering colleges. Today, 
              it has 245 that turn out a little over 75,000 engineers each year, 
              more than the US does. The four hot specialisations in any college, 
              in order of their appeal, are it, Computer Science, Electronics 
              and Communications Engineering (sweetly shortened to ECE), and Electrical 
              Engineering. Then there are the 180-odd training companies that 
              run it schools in the state-from national players NIIT, Aptech, 
              and SSI to one-neighbourhood shows such as CSC Computer Education. 
              "Tamil Nadu has the numbers," explains Harinarain. "It 
              is purely driven by demand and supply." For the record, Karnataka, 
              with 115 engineering colleges, graduates 35,000 engineers each year; 
              Andhra Pradesh, with 174, does 46,090. "The Tamils, especially 
              the middle classes, have always placed a great emphasis on education," 
              says V. Jacob John, a sociologist with Madras Institute of Development 
              Studies. Nor are they happy with a graduate degree; almost every 
              Tamil engineer has eyes set on a masters, even a doctoral degree, 
              either from an Indian university or a US one. Ergo, Tamils constitute 
              a significant proportion of the admits into the various IITs, RECs 
              (Regional Engineering Colleges), government and private colleges 
              in other states, and institutes of higher education in India and 
              the US.  
             The technical education boom in Tamil Nadu closely mirrors the 
              great Indian software story. "The state realised the value 
              of engineering education and decided to allow privatisation in the 
              early 1980s," says K.S. Lakshminarayanan, Chief Technical Advisor 
              & General Manager, Electronics Corporation of Tamil Nadu. That 
              saw the creation of private engineering colleges-today there are 
              237 of the kind. In contrast, Andhra Pradesh allowed the creation 
              of private engineering colleges in 1996, Karnataka in the early 
              1990s, and Kerala in 2000. By 1990, colleges such as Sree Venkateshwara 
              College of Engineering in Chennai, Mepco Schlenk Engineering College 
              in firework-town Sivakasi, and PSG College of Technology in Coimbatore 
              acquired the reputation of sending out entire batches to the US. 
              Then the network and cluster effects took over.  
            
               
                  | 
               
               
                | There are 180-odd training 
                  companies that run IT schools in the state-from national players 
                  NIIT, Aptech, and SSI to one-neighbourhood shows such as CSC 
                  Computer Education | 
               
             
            West Mambalam In New Jersey 
            Almost every engineering college in Tamil Nadu boasts an unofficial 
              equivalent of the USEFI, the United States Education Foundation 
              in India, which counsels students who wish to study in that country. 
             
             The underground versions are run by alumni that has made it to 
              the US and the help it provides ranges from tips on cracking graduate 
              record examination (GRE) to practical instructions on matters financial. 
              Then, says S. Mahalingam, Executive Vice President, TCS, there's 
              the network effect. "If a classmate of mine goes aboard, he 
              will try to help me get there too." That's what V. Varadarajan, 
              now 28 and a software engineer at a Chennai-based product development 
              company, did. Post graduation (from Bharat Engineering College in 
              Chennai) he picked up some Java-skills, found an agent who sent 
              him abroad, stayed there three years, switched as many jobs, got 
              benched and returned. Along the way he also helped three friends 
              he met in a Yahoo! chat room find jobs in the US. All three are 
              still there.  
             The Tamil-in-the-US, West Mambalam-in-New Jersey phenomenon has 
              fed off itself, a self-perpetuating wave that has only got bigger 
              and more powerful with time. A student of class VII sees his neighbour, 
              a fresh graduate from an engineering college in Coimbatore head 
              for the Illinois Institute of Technology for a MS degree in computer 
              science. A year later, he sees him again, a TA at the institute 
              down for the summer with a newly acquired accent and wondrous tales 
              of the US. Four years later he sees him again, now an analyst at 
              Computer Sciences Corp who plans to fly his parents-the farthest 
              west they've been before this is Jaipur-down to Boston where he 
              is based for a holiday and decides being a code-jock isn't so bad 
              after all. Egged on by his parents-"See how well Ram has done 
              for himself in Boston?"-he manages to secure admission to a 
              halfway decent engineering college in Chennai. And his life is made. 
              "With so many software success stories around in Tamil Nadu, 
              there's no shortage of role models for people in search of them," 
              says sociologist Jacob John. "It's almost as if the city's 
              young have been brainwashed into believing it is the thing." 
              In Tamil Nadu it really is. 
           |