Cornershop
10.00 a.m.
Just Around The Corner
Bandra/Mumbai
Breakfast for two: Rs 150-200
Breakfast has
never been a priority for this correspondent as far as meals go.
But then when you are politely told (in other words ordered) by
your boss to find a decent breakfast joint in the city, it makes
sense putting in the effort into finding a place that makes the
sacrifice of my deep slumber seem worthwhile.
So I found myself heading to a bylane in
Bandra, looking for St. Theresa's Boys High School. Why the school?
Because it is right opposite Just Around The Corner (JATC), and
I had been told that this is where I would find breakfast paradise
in this megapolis.
The eatery, with white and aqua walls, boasts
being one of the first to introduce an 'American Style' breakfast
to the city, and hints of Americana can be seen everywhere that
you look, with posters of Hollywood greats gazing down on you
from the walls.
Once inside, it's easy to forget where you
are. They say that if the food is good, the ambience shouldn't
matter, but in this case it is the ambience that makes one go
back for more. The huge arches and the all-glass walls make you
forget that you are still in a busy, traffic-infested suburb of
Mumbai. Despite it being the perfect place to grab a quick bite,
JATC also doubles up as an eatery where one can spend hours nursing
a coffee and catching up on one's reading.
But the ostensible reason I have been sent
here is the food, and the food is what makes JATC really great.
There are various combo meals on offer, but the best option is
the one that has sausages, bacon, hash browns, toast and eggs
to order. The stuffed omelette is enough to send you to foodie
heaven, even as the other items on the menu live up to the reputation
of being part of the best American breakfast in the city. And
best of all, for late risers like yours truly, the breakfast carries
on till 11 in the morning.
If that doesn't work for you, the pancakes,
dripping with melted butter and maple syrup, are enough to make
one drool. The only disappointment is that there was no 'all-you-can-eat'
option, but then again, after reading what my colleague had to
say at the end of his culinary excursion, maybe that is a good
thing after all.
-Priyanka Ssangani
Delhi Yankee
9.30 a.m.
All American Diner
India Habitat Centre/Lodhi Road
Breakfast for two: Rs 400-500
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Eat away: Delhi's All American Diner
has an all-you-can-eat option on the menu
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I was told that
to be a decent food writer, I must commune with the food. Bellyflop
with arms wide open into a sea of maple syrup. Hmm, that would
be quite a sticky situation. I would rather have done a bellyflop
into the Laphroaig distillery. But I'll try nonetheless.
Breakfast is not a meal that I usually take
very seriously; I like communing with my pillow. A lot. Still,
food is something that I do like, maybe even more than sleeping.
If gluttony is a sin, I'll use the Nuremberg defence, "I
was ordered to be a glutton." Well, at least in this case.
One of the first things I learnt when I went
into a kitchen was how to make eggs. My best efforts at frying
an egg sunny-side up led to abject failure, which in this case
meant scrambled eggs. I have no hesitation in saying that I love
eggs. It is a relationship that has blossomed over the years,
cholesterol be damned.
That in itself is a good reason to wake up
early and head to the All American Diner. The Betty Boop and Popeye
posters on the wall might be a bad throwback to pre-World War
II animation, but a plate full of eggs, sausages, bacon, pancakes
and potato hash is a good salve to make your mind forget.
You forget the downsides of the place that
you are eating in, like the fantastically clear tables, a lack
of fat jovial men working the skillet and sitting next to a bunch
of old retired men discussing politics. They might call it the
All American Diner, but no matter how much I tried, the memory
of a truck stop on the I-85 from New York to Boston played back
in my head. Somehow, sitting next to big tattooed truck drivers
eating greasy eggs and sausages in a dirty diner, seems more American
to me.
That said, the food was great. Good food
should not be ruined by conversation with others. Switch off your
mobile phone and dig in, don't be gentle; the best thing about
etiquette is the ability to forget it at times. Watching the maple
syrup drip off the pancake as you pick it up with your fork is
a sight to marvel at. Just don't do it for too long, else you
might get a large dry-cleaning bill. And it was a damn good pancake
too. Unfortunately, the sausages were a big let down; instead
of getting big wholesome lumps of flesh, the little things I got
did not qualify even as bite-sized.
Oh well, no wonder they have the 'Glutton
Special'; it's an all-you-can-eat option on the menu and it runs
from 7-11 in the morning. And God knows how much I ate. Forgive
me Lord, for I have sinned. I should really go to confession;
this love affair with eggs seems a bit peculiar.
-Kushan Mitra
Crowd Management
9.00 a.m.
MTR, Off Lal Bagh Road/Bangalore
Breakfast for two: Rs 50-100
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Rush-hour treat: Bangalore's MTR dishes
out simple South Indian fare
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The pell-mell
on the bustling Lal Bagh Road pales in contrast to the bedlam
inside the 80-year-old MTR anytime between 7.30 a.m. and 9 a.m.
The crowd at this eatery, a legend in itself, is a revelation.
While there's a foursome who've been eating their masala dosas
and by-two coffee for the last 25 years, they jostle for space
with an assortment of morning walkers, office goers, college students,
pensioners and housewives in the race to get seated at this amazingly
popular joint.
At MTR's rush hour, getting breakfast can
often seem harder than running a full marathon. A waiter will
make you wait in a crowded waiting room and let people in only
when there are vacancies. Tables will, of course, be shared with
complete strangers if you're alone or if it's just two of you
and, of course, no menu cards are handed out. While there's a
basic wooden board with everything listed, it's more likely that
a waiter will give you high-speed recitation of the day's menu.
It is not as if the menu is spectacular; its genius lies in its
simplicity. It is simple and standard South Indian fare: idlis,
dosas and vadas, and a couple of sweets like chandrahara and the
inevitable coffee. If you are feeling adventurous, you could try
the fresh fruit juice.
But when at MTR, do what people have done
for generations-order the masala dosa. The key to the mtr masala
dosa is its even spread, with just that right amount of masala
and potato curry, along with another MTR oddity, the thimbleful
of ghee. The friendly waiter, in a shirt and crumpled dhoti, will
start shuffling around your table once you're done, lest you snooze
and delay other waiting customers. Just before you're hustled
out, quietly of course, no one will point a gun to your head to
get you to leave, you must imbibe the mandatory coffee. Like all
good South Indian joints, there's no instant cappuccino or mocha
at hand here, just good ol' filter coffee. And to ensure that
the feeling of nostalgia is complete, it is still served in silver
tumblers.
-Rahul Sachitanand
A Bite Of The Dragon
6.00 a.m. to 8.00 a.m.
Sun-Yat-Sen Street/Kolkata's Old Chinatown
Breakfast for two: Rs 50-60
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It's sticky: Chicken pao is a hot favourite
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It's not your
regular ritzy, glitzy food joint. In fact, it doesn't even have
a name or an address... just a location and an identity. Welcome
to Sun- Yat-Sen Street-named after the late Chinese nationalist
leader-in Kolkata's Old Chinatown, behind Poddar Court. The sights
and sounds are unique to this part of town... makeshift Chinese
food stalls vie for space with local subziwallahs... the smell
of pork, chicken and fish dumplings mixes with the scent of freshly-cut
vegetables to create a heady aroma... the overall impression is
vaguely reminiscent of the famous Bangkok flower market.
Rita Wong, a fourth generation Chinese-Indian,
has the biggest of half-a-dozen open-air stalls. "Business
is down," she complains in a sing-song accent. "Most
of the Chinese have migrated to the West. Nowadays, a majority
of my customers are Indians or foreigners (read: backpacking Westerners),"
she says. The menu reflects this change-chicken and fish have
replaced pork as the non-vegetarian staples. Wong serves a variety
of home-cooked (fried and steamed) dumplings, wantons and momos,
but the bestseller on her menu is the chicken pao-chunks of chicken
stuffed into wheat flour dough and steamed. "The original,
stuffed with pork, is a traditional Chinese breakfast snack,"
she explains, pointing to the smaller of her two steamers where
she is preparing pork paos for those who might want a bite of
the authentic Chinese version. The chunky bread is sticky, piping
hot and is served on plastic plates with a homemade chilly-sweet
jaggery sauce. "You should have a bowl of tangy soup with
the pao," she guides us, pointing to the soup stall next
to hers. "They complement each other." She's right.
Slurp!
-Arnab Mitra
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